Viands

'Viands' is for those who know that preparing food can be an end in itself, not just a means of getting something to eat. It's an irregular chronicle of play in the kitchen, emphasizing two areas: Processing techniques like charcuterie, salting, smoking, and so forth, and also the creative use of leftovers. Anyone can go out and buy everything needed to make something good, but to work only with what’s found at hand is a far greater challenge and, in the end, perhaps more satisfying.

Name:
Location: San Francisco, California, United States

Saturday, March 11, 2006

Duck Confit

All ducks are not created equal. Being in a hurry on Tuesday, I had stopped at a Chinese market in the Sunset to pick up a duck for the confit. This was a mistake. Being parked illegally (often unavoidable in that part of San Francisco), I didn’t examine it closely when it was pulled out of the case, and what I got was a very skinny duck of the type used in Chinese BBQ, one with lots of skin but much less meat than the typical domestic Pekin or Muscovy type. By the time I disjointed it, the whole thing hardly seemed worth the effort but I decided to go ahead anyway.

After salting the breast and legs away I rendered out as much fat as possible from the remainders. The poor emaciated bird didn’t provide much fat, so I added in some tasty goose fat I'd been hanging onto, and, to make up the necessary volume for cooking, a fair amount of lard. After 24 hours in the cure, the duck parts were washed to remove the salt, dried, and placed in a small dutch oven with enough fat to cover them. First they were brought to a simmer, and then spent the night in a slow oven (about 180 degrees).

This morning they were looking good! Tender but firm enough not to fall apart, they were transferred to a crockery dish and covered with the strained fat. I’ll let them rest in the refrigerator for a few days or maybe a couple of weeks before trying them.

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